Anyone in Israel over winter break will see those large groups of college-aged tourists with their foreign English language, awe-filled virgin eyes, and overstuffed dollar-shekel hybrid wallets.
Specifically, I'm talking about the many different groups on Taglit-birthright Israel, the program providing a free educational trip to the holy land to any Jewish young adult under 27 who has never taken part in a peer educational Israel program. This year, my older, more Zionist sister Alex (and might I mention Year Course alumnus) served as a madricha (counselor) for one Taglit-birthright group, and I had the chance to spend a Shabbat with them in Jerusalem.
I had no idea what to expect when I met the group at the hotel, so just for social safety, I brought my roommate from Bat Yam with me. My sister immediately began introducing me to the people in her group: “This is Ben, he doesn't usually have a mustache.” In a last minute effort to embarrass the oldest Halpern sibling, I shaved my beard into a mustache before I left for Jerusalem. If Year Course isn't the time to experiment with facial hair then when is?
I was amazed at the diversity of the group, comprised of young adults of all ages, nationalities, colleges, social backgrounds, levels of observance, and Jewish identities. Perhaps my favorite clique on the trip was the trio of Russian New Yorkers who called themselves the “Mafia,” spoke Russian to each other, and only drank Grey Goose vodka.
Listening to the group talk about their experiences over the past week reminded me of my first time here two years ago. They raved about the old city of Jerusalem, Mount Masada, Independence Hall in Tel Aviv, and the Yemenite wedding they witnessed. When asked to which Taglit-birthright group I belonged, it gave me pleasure to respond that I live in Israel. I had to explain that I don't live on a tour bus and see the sites over and over, but I live in a developing community working at a school, coaching tennis, and taking Hebrew classes.
When twenty-one-year-old Georgie, the oldest of the Mafia members, told me how much he loved Israel and how badly he wanted to do Year Course, it pained me to tell him he was too old and missed his calling. There's always aliyah (moving to Israel) and the army for you, Georgie!
As Shabbat ended, the group coordinator led a Havdallah service and discussion summing up the week. He spoke about the importance of a Jew's first Shabbat in Jerusalem, and how this weekend should be remembered for a lifetime. Then the members of the group went around and said anything they wanted to about their experiences. One girl spoke of the power of her first visit to the Kotel. Another remarked how interesting it was to see so many tourists from all over the world—not just Jews—at the famous sites such as the Museum of the Jewish Diaspora (Beth Hatefutsoth) and the Holocaust Memorial Museum (Yad Vashem). Alexi of the “Mafia,” is perhaps the most memorable mention. She noted that only six days earlier, this group was comprised of forty strangers, but at this Havdallah service the group was one family, bound only by the glue of Judaism and Zionism.
Every Taglit-birthright group also has ten or so Israelis in their early twenties to allow the visitors to meet and spend time with Israelis their age. I expected the Israelis, many of whom were in the army, to see the newcomers as naïve and sheltered. At the Havdallah service, I learned it was quite the opposite for the Israeli members of the group. Before the trip, Israel was merely the country in which they went to school, partied with friends, and served in the army. By touring with and listening to the comments of the Americans, they came to value and appreciate the land so full of history, culture, and religion they call home.
Sitting at that service, I found myself in the same mindset as the Israelis—I live here every day—volunteering, taking classes, and going out with friends; a lifestyle possible in any country. I am warmed when reminded that I am doing all of this not in just any country, but in Israel as the fulfillment of my Zionist ambitions. That night, I was proud to finally say I felt Israeli.


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